November 9, 2003

So, today is the day. Per usual, I slept zilch last night; mostly care of a French fellow whose night-time breathing bared a sonic resemblance to a bowling tournament. I did, however, make use of my sleeplessness and showered for the first time in a few days, and shaved for the first time since I got here (with almost two weeks of growth, I'd begun to look like a settler). So, I'm all squeaky clean for the soldiers and the cameras, today. It's likely just one more way for me to convince myself that I'm adequately prepared for something I'm most certainly not.

At 8am, a crew of about 8 fresh ISM trainees showed up at our door, and within about 30 minutes, we formed a circle in the men's sleeping area, to review the action plan, designate roles, etc. The diversity was dizzying -- Swedes, Americans, Brits, Danes, Germans, French... Even people from the Basque Country (during introductions, my lack of sleep led me to believe they had said they were from "The Lost Country" -- to much confusion on my part). Gabe and Frederic (two international ISM coordinators on the ground here in Qalqilia) facilitated everything like they were drinking water -- seamlessly working in time for people to translate discussions for those with less English, questions, clarification, advice, scenario, etc. It was beautiful. They deserve a shit-ton of praise for making consensus process look like child's play, with about four different languages going at once.

One thing worth mentioning here is, what I find to be, the most interesting nuance of Ramadan. For those unfamiliar, Ramadan is a Muslim holy month, more or less, where adherents fast from sun-up to sundown; not eating, drinking fluids, smoking, etc. Well, apparently, you're not allowed to breathe tear gas, either. I'm not making this up, folks (I couldn't come up with that if I wanted to). I seriously thought Mohammed was joking when he said it last night, but it was repeated today, because out of respect for the local culture, ISMers are asked not to be seen drinking water, eating, smoking, etc. in the street during light hours... And we're also being asked to respect people's religious burden by not breathing tear gas today, either. Don't ask. If I hadn't had it explained to me firsthand, I wouldn't get it, either. So, no teargas today, kids. Got that?

Without giving away too much about what I'll be doing today, I'll let on that I'm in the highest risk part of the action; working with one American, one Swede, three Basque, and one Frenchman. If we pull this off, it's going to be hot shit. If we don't, well... The worst that will likely happen is my housemates will be seeing my freshly-shaven face strolling through the front door by midnight Eastern Time. If I manage to avoid such an end, I'll likely find myself in a taxi headed to Beit Sahour to finish out my tenure here, in the media office. Either way, I've put a hoodie and my cell phone in my backpack today, on the off chance I find myself at Dulles in the mid-evening cold, tonight (which I'm told is highly unlikely... But I wasn't supposed to spend a week in jail in Philly back in 2000, either, you know?).

It's good to finally be doing something, here. It's good to feel of use, for once. It's good to know that so many people back home have cared enough to chit-chat with me online, agree to make emergency phone calls if necessary, and well... If my cell number shows up on theirs tonight... Be willing to pick me up from the airport, hahaha.

Here's to smashing Apartheid, from Anacostia to Qalqilia.